Oregon was one of those states that snuck up on me. Once I stepped foot in the state, my jaw dropped. Why is Oregon this quiet gem that I didn’t even give a second thought to exploring? But there I was, blown away with its thousand shades of green, beautiful mountains, serene oceans and costal towns. I was hooked. So when the opportunity arose for me to spend 6 days exploring all 360+ miles of Oregon Coast from the far northern point, all the way to the very far south, I jumped at the opportunity.
FIRST STOP, CANNON BEACH
A short drive from Portland out to the coast is one that I will never tire. This desert rat was taking in all the greenery and loving every gentle drop of rain that was landing onto my windshield. It’s roughly about 80 miles from Portland straight to Cannon Beach, and the twisty road through elevation changes and beautiful forest terrain, is an iconic welcoming to the Pacific Northwest. One of Oregon’s most popular destinations is Cannon Beach, known for its rocky spires showcasing stunning seascapes.
Once checked into my hotel in Cannon Beach, I headed up the coast to the most northern point, Fort Stevens State Park. That is where the famous shipwreck of the Peter Iredale lays just at the shoreline of the beach. An easy walk from the parking area down to the waterline, and voila, there lies the skeleton of the infamous ship which had set sail from Mexico and wrecked here on its way to the final destination in Portland.
All of a sudden out of the corner of my eye I saw 2 people on beautiful white horses descend down onto the beach with a boisterous pup following along. I grabbed my gear, and started running in their direction even though they were moving away from me. As fast as my little legs could go, carrying 20 pounds of gear, and trudging through sand, I finally caught up with them as they had turned around and were coming back my direction. I met Holly and her husband who live near by and were out on an afternoon ride. We chatted a bit, and they were gracious enough to let me photograph them. I later found out it was Holly’s birthday, which made for an extra special shoot for both of us. This is also where I first learned how animal friendly the beaches are in Oregon.
The terrain changes so quickly in Oregon, from the rock spires jutting out from the shoreline, to the soft, smooth sandy beaches, to the dazzling greens on display amongst the trees, forest and foliage.
After my sunset shots at Fort Stevens, I made my way back to Cannon Beach just in time to catch the last few rays dancing along the horizon, in one of the most recognizable and beautiful parts of the coastline. And I wasn’t alone this time either. As I learned throughout the trip, no beach ever felt busy or crowded, and as the last light hit our retinas, a bevy of photographers were out there trying to capture some magic too.
SECOND STOP, NEWPORT
There is a lot to see along the Oregon Coast and the best advice I can give you, is to stop and stop often. There are gorgeous pull outs, viewpoints and overlooks, all which give a completely different scenery as you beebop down Highway 101. I love that at some pullouts, there are maps of upcoming points of interest, both for if you are driving north or south.
Between Cannon Beach and Newport, there are so many interesting and unique places to stop and see. I was on a mission to make it to Oceanside to meet a friend for lunch, so I didn’t get as much time as I’d prefer to explore each area in depth, however I was not disappointed. This was probably my longest day and longest distance of travel in the span of 24 hours.
As you travel south on Highway 101 from Cannon Beach, you can stop at Hug Point or Rockaway Beach, and then continue inland passing through Tilamook. If it feasts your fancy, stop at the cheese co-op in the grasslands of Tilamook and gaze at the large population of cows. Locals joke there are more cows than residents. Afterwards, veer off Highway 101 towards the coast and saunter through Netarts to the quaint hillside oasis of Oceanside. Walk the beach, and if the tide is low, sneak through a little tunnel in the rock and appear at another local’s favorite, a private beach called 100 Steps.
A can’t miss spot just up the hillside from the Oceanside beachfront, is the Cape Meares Lighthouse, an interesting spot to view sea lions basking off shore or the annual whale migration. Not to be missed is the Octopus Tree or any of the nature trails that wind around the area. Situated on the north part of the Three Cape Scenic Route, if you have time, hike out to Cape Lookout for one of the best coastal hikes and a favorite of locals.
Leaving Oceanside, hug the coastline by driving the Three Cape Scenic Route which will also take you to Cape Kiwanda where the famous brewery called The Pelican resides beachside. This tiny little town hosts this qaint beach, with a sandstone colored formation on the north side. There is a large sand bank with locals climbing up and down and exploring above the beach, but what took my attention, again, were the locals enjoying the outdoors and sunny weather with their four-legged family members. Just the amount of joy seen on those canine faces, made this stop worth it.
Back onto the 101, enjoy the drive as you weave back and forth along the coastline. Pass through Lincoln City, and make a late afternoon stop in Depoe Bay. Known for the resident whales that live in the bay, take a moment to visit the Depoe Bay Whale Watch Center, learn about the local whale migrations, and the impact of whales on the local history and economy. Before leaving Depoe, pull over on the 101 at a viewpoint right in town and watch the churning waters below in the bay. With the tides coming in, Mother Nature puts on a big display of large waves crashing up onto the rocks, often sprinkling visitors with mist. It’s a nice break from sitting in the car to see families and kids shrieking as they run away from getting wet as they view the spectacle from the roadside.
And finally, I made my way into Newport, one of the towns every single person I consulted, told me I needed to see. With a personality all its own, this gem certainly did not disappoint. An early evening drive out to Yaquina Head Lighthouse, not only provided a beautiful view back towards the town of Newport, but the seaside outcroppings were home to the iconic murres seabirds nesting, resting and vocalizing in high density colonies.
And the beauty of Newport, the Yaquina Head Lighhouse standing proud at sunset.
I returned to Yaquina Head in the morning to take advantage of the tidepools before heading back to my route on Highway 101. A morning exploration lent itself to a close encounter with a harbor seal and the vanishing sea stars.
Sea stars all along the north American Pacific have been suffering from a condition called Sea Star Wasting Syndrome where there have been mass mortalities of these gorgeous little animals. Suffering from lesions and tissue decay, the sea star essentially turns to mush, suffering fragmentation and then death. Seen as far north as Alaska and as far south as California, researchers are finding it affects mostly coastal populations and are continuing to study this bacterial disease with the most likely culprit being global warming.
The tide pools of Yaquina Head are protected and monitored by local authorities, making it one of the best tide pool areas along the entire Oregon Coast.
While in Newport, don’t miss the Oregon State Aquarium or the Hatfield Marine Science Center where Keiko lived.
THIRD STOP, FLORENCE
Whew! That’s a lot to see and do just within that stretch to Newport. But further along the coast are more and more wonderful and unique sights to see. Leaving Newport, stop at Seal Rock Beach, a wayside stop with a smaller beach in comparison to some of the other stopping points. A quick trot down to the beach from the parking area gives a stunning view of Seal Rock and if you catch it right, you can make out other rock formations such as Elephant Rock.
After Seal Rock, I felt I reached the midpoint of the coastline, and the terrain changed quite dramatically. No longer were the little towns close and quaint, but the coastal waypoints were further spread apart and turned more from coastal, to forest. The clouds darkened, the road grew more windy, and my frequent stops became less and less.
There were sweeping, wide turns in the highway, and one such turn brought me just north of Florence to Haceta Head Lighthouse. This was one of the first coastal landmarks on my radar as a friend has inquired about me photographing their wedding here. Upon than inquiry, I started to research the area, and not only knew the lighthouse was a major stopping point on the coast, but it first planted the seed about visiting the coast other than a jaunt to Cannon Beach from Portland. Here alone, on the coast, warning and beckoning visitors, lies the lonely Haceta Head Lighthouse with working residential quarters as well. Not an easy 1 mile hike from the parking area, I preferred this view of the lighthouse from further south on the highway, than from on the lighthouse property.
One of my favorite stops was visiting the Sea Lion Caves about 10 miles north of Florence. Noted as the world’s largest sea cave, it has a height of a 12-story building, and is the length of a football field. Hundreds of stellar sea lions can be seen in their natural habitat, and my gosh are they loud too, with each vocalization reverberating against the cave walls. After descending over 200 feet through the rock in an elevator, this is the scene that unfolds before you, more sea lions than you can count.
A second viewpoint outside the cave shows even more of these quirky animals, resting and barking at one another.
Ten more miles down the coast and you arrive in Florence. This cute little town is the north point of the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. For a state known for its rocky coastline and thousand shades of green, sand dunes seem the least likely terrain to be found.
These dunes stretch for 40 miles from Florence down to North Bend, making this recreation area the largest coastal dunes in North America. Some dunes can soar up to 500 feet above sea level, which lends itself to being a popular stop for activities such as fishing, sand boarding, and even families out for a dune buggy ride.
FOURTH STOP, BANDON
Each place I’ve stopped and visited, I’ve been proactive in asking the locals about places they recommend I see. Even though I do a lot of research prior to any trip, it is still easy to miss unique points of interest that only the locals know. And on this morning as I left rainy Florence for Bandon, I was told to stop at the Dean Creek Elk Viewing Area. Just a mere 3 miles off my route on Highway 101, this spot was a true visual feast as it opened up to a vast field, sporting early morning light, lush greens, and all sorts of yummy fog on the hillside. With a mix of rains and warmth springing from the earth, it created this beautiful, ethereal morning, and one I was longing to see. Due to the on and off again rains, the elk were bedded down at the very far back of the field, just along the tree line, and even with my longest lens was just barely able to detect them.
Don’t forget to stop through Shores Acres State Park on your way to Bandon. Unfortunately because I was passing through, I missed high tide where enormous waves come crashing up onto the shoreline. This is one of the most well-known events that happen in the southern Oregon Coast and I’m sad I missed it. There are some easy hiking paths all along the state park, and it’s a leisure, out and back, drive into the park and then back out onto Highway 101. The turnoffs from the highway to the park can be easily missed, so using the assistance of Siri on an iphone or a GPS device is highly recommended.
Next stop, Bandon! Ohh, what can I say about Bandon. It is otherworldly. It is desolate. It is amazing. Bandon had been on my radar for quite some time. For any landscape photographer, it is either in their portfolio, or on their list to photograph some day, and I’ve seen a variety of images captured here in some stunning light. Like its northern neighbor Cannon Beach, Bandon is also known for its rock spire formations, only Bandon’s are much more characteristic with features named Face Rock and Wizard’s Hat.
I was concerned my 1 night in Bandon was going to be a bust because it had been raining on and off all day. I kept going back to Face Rock Lookout and checking the weather. Luckily the clouds briefly opened up and the rains stopped, just long enough for me to trudge down to the beach and grab a few long exposures. I certainly would like to come back again and spend more time, as you can see, this area has a personality all of its own.
FIFTH STOP, BROOKINGS
Last but not least was my arrival into Brookings for my last night on the coast. On the way to Brookings, a drive through Gold Beach may be worth stopping as it is widely known for jet boat rides that go up and into the Rogue River. It is a family paradise taking advantage of fun outings on boats on the river, as well as all the benefits of the Oregon coast.
This particular drive hugged the coastline quite tightly, and it reminded me of the northern California coastline, and fittingly so, the California state line is only about 10 miles away from the city center.
The pride and joy of Brookings is just before you enter the city, which is the Samuel Boardman State Park, known for its steep and rocky coastline with pines growing out of the tops of sea stacks. The 12 mile long park has several hiking trails, mostly leading down to secluded beaches or sharp cliffs. One can easily spend a few days just within this short stretch of land exploring, hiking and taking in the unique views.
The temperate weather was a delightful change from Bandon’s dark mood, which only enhanced the glow in the water. This was the perfect way to round out my last day in Oregon with sunshine kissing my skin and a smile on my face.
As my 6 days came to an end, there wasn’t much that I had longed for or missed. There certainly are areas I would like to come back and visit for a longer period of time. Would I do the trip over again? Absolutely! Until then, I have a wonderful adventure and trip to add to my memory bank and photographic archive. I hope you all enjoyed this journey along with me, and if you have any questions planning your own Oregon coast trip, don’t hesitate to send me an email.
What I wish I had more time for:
- Tidepools – due to my schedule to wake each morning and move south down the coast, I missed the low tides at locations I was passing through. I’d love to stop and spend more time in a few different towns and really explore those areas more in depth
- Meeting friends in Portland, Lake Oswego and Bend
- Visiting many of the glass blowing studios I passed on my route
- Shores Acres Park at high tide to see the massive waves hitting the rocky coastline
- Whale watching
